Bali’s largest and holiest temple, perched on Mount Agung, uniting faith, tradition, and breathtaking beauty.
High on the slopes of Mount Agung, Bali’s tallest and most sacred volcano, stands Besakih Temple – known across the island as Pura Besakih or simply the “Mother Temple.” It is the largest and holiest Hindu temple complex in Bali, and it holds deep cultural, spiritual, and historical significance. With its layered stone terraces, sweeping mountain views, and thick atmosphere of reverence, Besakih is not just a place of worship – it is a symbol of the island’s identity.
Besakih Temple is located in eastern Bali, in the Karangasem Regency, about 1.5 to 2 hours by car from Ubud or Sanur. The journey to get there climbs steadily through rice fields, forests and mountain villages, becoming cooler and greener as you ascend. It is best reached by private car, scooter, or with a driver, as public transport does not service the temple directly. Once you arrive at the base, there is a designated visitor entrance with parking, ticketing booths, and sarong rental stalls. Entry fees are around IDR 60,000 for adults, and visitors are required to wear a sarong and sash – both of which are usually included in the price or available for hire.
Set at around 1,000 metres above sea level, Besakih Temple sits on the southwestern slope of Mount Agung, an active volcano that is considered the most sacred point on the island. In Balinese cosmology, mountains are seen as the homes of gods and ancestral spirits, and Mount Agung is believed to be the spiritual axis of Bali. The temple’s location was chosen for its alignment with the cosmic balance between heaven and earth. From its elevated position, Besakih offers views across rice terraces, hillsides, and distant coastline – a reminder of the vast world below and the spiritual world above.
History, Structure, and Religious Life
Besakih is not a single temple, but a complex of more than 80 individual temples, shrines, and ceremonial buildings spread across six levels. The main structure, Pura Penataran Agung, is the largest and most important, dedicated to Shiva, the destroyer and transformer in the Hindu trinity. Other temples within the complex are devoted to Brahma and Vishnu, as well as regional deities, ancestral spirits, and local protective forces. Each caste and clan in Bali also has its own family shrine here, making Besakih a unifying site for the entire island. It is both a national spiritual centre and a deeply personal one for Balinese Hindus.
The history of Besakih stretches back over a thousand years, with its earliest foundations believed to have been built in the 8th century. The temple has been expanded and renovated many times since then, often in response to natural disasters, volcanic eruptions, or changes in religious practice. Despite its age and frequent activity from Mount Agung, the temple complex has miraculously survived multiple eruptions, including a major one in 1963 that killed thousands across the region – but stopped just metres from the temple itself. Locals consider this a sign of divine protection, reinforcing the site’s sacred status.
Besakih plays host to numerous religious festivals throughout the year, many of which draw thousands of worshippers dressed in ceremonial white, carrying offerings of fruit, flowers, and rice. The most significant ceremony is Panca Wali Krama, held once every 100 years, though annual rituals and smaller temple anniversaries (known as odalan) also see large gatherings. During these events, the entire complex is filled with the sound of gamelan music, the scent of incense, and a sea of colour from the elaborate ceremonial dress and decorations.
Visiting Besakih: Experience and Reflection
For visitors, walking through Besakih is an immersive experience. The temple terraces are linked by stone staircases and wide walkways, flanked by guardian statues and intricately carved gates. Each level opens to a new courtyard, shrine, or gathering area. The architecture is traditional and symbolic, with towering meru (multi-roofed pagodas), sacred lotus ponds, and altars for offerings. The air is cooler and fresher here, and there is a noticeable shift in energy as you move through the complex – it feels both grounded and elevated at the same time.
While non-Hindu visitors are not permitted to enter the innermost sanctums, there is still much to see and absorb. The experience is not only visual – it is cultural, spiritual, and even emotional. You will often see locals engaged in prayer or ritual, and it is important to observe with respect. Keep your voice low, dress modestly, and avoid walking in front of people who are praying. Photography is allowed in most areas, but always ask before taking pictures of individuals or ceremonies.
Besakih is also a place of learning. It reveals how deeply spirituality is woven into daily life in Bali. The temple’s layout reflects the Balinese concept of Tri Hita Karana – the harmony between people, nature, and the divine. Its continued use over centuries shows the resilience of tradition in a fast-changing world. And its location, suspended between the earth and sky, reminds everyone who visits that some places are made not just to be seen, but to be felt.
While visiting Besakih, many travellers also take time to explore the surrounding area. Nearby attractions include Sidemen Valley, Tirta Gangga Water Palace, Lempuyang Temple, and scenic trekking routes that offer views of Agung and the eastern coastline. For those interested in deeper spiritual experiences, Besakih can be paired with visits to local healers, yoga retreats, or temple ceremonies in nearby villages. It is a gateway to a more reflective side of Bali – less about beach bars and more about connection.
To make the most of your visit, try to arrive early in the day before large tour groups arrive. Morning light also casts a golden glow across the stone structures and surrounding valley. Bring water, comfortable shoes for walking on uneven surfaces, and a respectful attitude – this is a living temple, not a museum. While guides are available at the entrance, be selective. Official guides wear identification and are trained in the history and significance of the temple. Avoid pushy individuals outside the gate.
In a land filled with beautiful temples, Besakih still stands apart. Its scale is grand, its energy powerful, and its history profound. It is a place where gods are worshipped, families gather, and pilgrims from across the island come to seek blessing and guidance. To step into Besakih is to step into the spiritual soul of Bali. It is not just a destination – it is an experience of devotion, culture, and connection that stays with you long after you leave its sacred steps behind.